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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked prominently among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.